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Last post 2 days ago by Stogie1020. 188 replies replies.
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Mary, Mary, quite contrary, How does your garden grow?
Jakethesnake86 Offline
#151 Posted:
Joined: 12-29-2020
Posts: 4,266
I planted over 3 million corn seed today. Several more million to go. Got some free sweet corn seed for the garden as a thank you from pioneer
jeebling Offline
#152 Posted:
Joined: 08-04-2015
Posts: 1,547
Damn, that’s a lot of fish heads! Good work. Jake. You deserve a great smoke and an adult beverage.
RobertHively Offline
#153 Posted:
Joined: 01-14-2015
Posts: 1,954
Jakethesnake86 wrote:
I planted over 3 million corn seed today.


Damn cuz. You got enough canning jars and lids for that? :)
RobertHively Offline
#154 Posted:
Joined: 01-14-2015
Posts: 1,954
Put the last 7 rows in before the thunderstorm.

35 rows total of 38 to 40 seeds, gives us 1,330 to 1,400 seeds planted.

Was thinking...so that's 1/25th of an acre. Multiple the above numbers by 25 and that's 33,250 to 35,000 seeds per acre.

It would take me almost a month to plant an acre of corn if I worked 8 hrs a day everyday. Not happening.

Is there some type of machine that small scale farmers use that doesn't cost 10's or 100's of thousands of dollars??
Abrignac Online
#155 Posted:
Joined: 02-24-2012
Posts: 17,392
RobertHively wrote:
Put the last 7 rows in before the thunderstorm.

35 rows total of 38 to 40 seeds, gives us 1,330 to 1,400 seeds planted.

Was thinking...so that's 1/25th of an acre. Multiple the above numbers by 25 and that's 33,250 to 35,000 seeds per acre.

It would take me almost a month to plant an acre of corn if I worked 8 hrs a day everyday. Not happening.

Is there some type of machine that small scale farmers use that doesn't cost 10's or 100's of thousands of dollars??



There are several walk behind manual seed planters that can be had for $100-$200. Just google “manual seed planter”. It seems that the wheels are of sufficient size to facilitate moving across freshly tilled soil. I’d opt for the one having the largest wheels if all else is equal. Of course I can’t attest to the quality of manufacturing or actual functionality since I’ve never owned one.

On the other hand if you have a tractor then there are many that will mount on a 3-point hitch. But those start around $1,600 or so.
RobertHively Offline
#156 Posted:
Joined: 01-14-2015
Posts: 1,954
Abrignac wrote:
There are several walk behind manual seed planters that can be had for $100-$200. .

On the other hand if you have a tractor then there are many that will mount on a 3-point hitch. But those start around $1,600 or so.


Ok I will definitely look into that for next season. Even if I only build that 50x50 garden, a tool like that would help me.

I have a couple riding mowers. They make attachments for my Cub Cadet Xt1 Lt50. I know they make snow plow attachments for example, but I don't think they have anything for gardening. I can check OEM and aftermarket...

Thanks.


jeebling Offline
#157 Posted:
Joined: 08-04-2015
Posts: 1,547
RobertHively wrote:
Ok I will definitely look into that for next season. Even if I only build that 50x50 garden, a tool like that would help me.

I have a couple riding mowers. They make attachments for my Cub Cadet Xt1 Lt50. I know they make snow plow attachments for example, but I don't think they have anything for gardening. I can check OEM and aftermarket...

Thanks.




Craigslist is useful if you don’t mind trying a used one
RobertHively Offline
#158 Posted:
Joined: 01-14-2015
Posts: 1,954
jeebling wrote:
Craigslist is useful if you don’t mind trying a used one


Good idea. I'll check FB Marketplace too when I have the time.

Since we've been up here I got my 75 gal aquarium and my plow from Marketplace.
Jakethesnake86 Offline
#159 Posted:
Joined: 12-29-2020
Posts: 4,266
You can your sweet corn Robert? I grew up blanching it and freezing it after cutting it off the cob

I grow very little sweet corn everything I’m planting will eventually become chicken feed. I sell my grain to the chicken companies mountaire mostly
Jakethesnake86 Offline
#160 Posted:
Joined: 12-29-2020
Posts: 4,266
Just for the heck of it I run a kinze 3660 12-23 planter if anyone is curious you can google it. They’re good planters lol
Abrignac Online
#161 Posted:
Joined: 02-24-2012
Posts: 17,392
Jakethesnake86 wrote:
You can your sweet corn Robert? I grew up blanching it and freezing it after cutting it off the cob

I grow very little sweet corn everything I’m planting will eventually become chicken feed. I sell my grain to the chicken companies mountaire mostly


That’s interesting. When I was driving OTR I hauled many loads of Mountaire chicken out of the Siler City, NC plant to Restaurant Depots all across the southwest states and up and down the Pacific coast states.

Where are you located Jake?
Abrignac Online
#162 Posted:
Joined: 02-24-2012
Posts: 17,392
RobertHively wrote:
Put the last 7 rows in before the thunderstorm.

35 rows total of 38 to 40 seeds, gives us 1,330 to 1,400 seeds planted.

Was thinking...so that's 1/25th of an acre. Multiple the above numbers by 25 and that's 33,250 to 35,000 seeds per acre.

It would take me almost a month to plant an acre of corn if I worked 8 hrs a day everyday. Not happening.

Is there some type of machine that small scale farmers use that doesn't cost 10's or 100's of thousands of dollars??


At 75% germination and average of 3 ears per stalk you’ll end up with at least 2,000 ears. Probably more unless a storm or some other disaster destroys your crop. You’re gonna be eating homemade Doritos every day.
Jakethesnake86 Offline
#163 Posted:
Joined: 12-29-2020
Posts: 4,266
Abrignac I’m in Delaware Harrington. I used to raise chickens for Perdue for years
Abrignac Online
#164 Posted:
Joined: 02-24-2012
Posts: 17,392
Jakethesnake86 wrote:
Abrignac I’m in Delaware Harrington. I used to raise chickens for Perdue for years


I think I may have passed through your neck of the woods a time or two. Seems like I came out of New Jersey once or twice and picked up chicken in Delaware then headed back northwest towards the Baltimore area to catch I-95 then onward to who knows where.
RobertHively Offline
#165 Posted:
Joined: 01-14-2015
Posts: 1,954
Jakethesnake86 wrote:
You can your sweet corn Robert? I grew up blanching it and freezing it after cutting it off the cob

I grow very little sweet corn everything I’m planting will eventually become chicken feed. I sell my grain to the chicken companies mountaire mostly



We froze a lot of it, but we did can 12 pints last summer.

It was good, and canning preserves the corn even if there is no electricity.
RobertHively Offline
#166 Posted:
Joined: 01-14-2015
Posts: 1,954
Jakethesnake86 wrote:
Just for the heck of it I run a kinze 3660 12-23 planter if anyone is curious you can google it. They’re good planters lol


That's really cool, Jake.
RobertHively Offline
#167 Posted:
Joined: 01-14-2015
Posts: 1,954
Abrignac wrote:
At 75% germination and average of 3 ears per stalk you’ll end up with at least 2,000 ears. Probably more unless a storm or some other disaster destroys your crop. You’re gonna be eating homemade Doritos every day.


Processing all of it will be the hard part.


Jakethesnake86 Offline
#168 Posted:
Joined: 12-29-2020
Posts: 4,266
^ yeah processing is the issue but damn sweet corn hits hard when you have it frozen or canned around February when nothing fresh is available. I put a little bit in my planter and grow enough to share and eat
RobertHively Offline
#169 Posted:
Joined: 01-14-2015
Posts: 1,954
Abrignac wrote:
At 75% germination and average of 3 ears per stalk you’ll end up with at least 2,000 ears. Probably more unless a storm or some other disaster destroys your crop. You’re gonna be eating homemade Doritos every day.


Hey I dint want to mess up your politics thread too much but I did laugh at your "corn futures" post.

I know I should have staggered the corn. 50% initial plant, and then plant the other 50% around mid June. That way the processing wouldn't be all at the same time, it's what I do with my beans.

This is the first year of the 70x25 though, and I just wanted to see the corn come up all at once...prolly gonna regret that.
8trackdisco Offline
#170 Posted:
Joined: 11-06-2004
Posts: 60,114
The oak trees in the yard drop several different things. Majestically beautiful, but something falling from them is killing my lawn. Live in a woody area.

What is it and how do I counteract it?

My lawn has been the lesser of many subpar yards on my street. Some neighbors do all sorts of chemicals with has a marginal inpact for half the summer, then revert a level similar to mine.

Abrignac Online
#171 Posted:
Joined: 02-24-2012
Posts: 17,392
RobertHively wrote:
Hey I dint want to mess up your politics thread too much but I did laugh at your "corn futures" post.

I know I should have staggered the corn. 50% initial plant, and then plant the other 50% around mid June. That way the processing wouldn't be all at the same time, it's what I do with my beans.

This is the first year of the 70x25 though, and I just wanted to see the corn come up all at once...prolly gonna regret that.


Ahhh it wouldn’t have bothered me. The only scared thread on the site is the 500 and some noob even managed to screw that up.
jeebling Offline
#172 Posted:
Joined: 08-04-2015
Posts: 1,547
8trackdisco wrote:
The oak trees in the yard drop several different things. Majestically beautiful, but something falling from them is killing my lawn. Live in a woody area.

What is it and how do I counteract it?

My lawn has been the lesser of many subpar yards on my street. Some neighbors do all sorts of chemicals with has a marginal inpact for half the summer, then revert a level similar to mine.



I’ve been told that grass won’t grow under an Oak tree. From the trunk, you should start seeing grass before you get to the drip line. I keep my Oaks mulched about halfway to the drip line. I start the mulch approximately 1 1/2 - 2 foot from the trunk. I keep the little circle between the mulch and trunk raked and clean and I keep the top roots there exposed. This little area is a terrific place to water your tree in drought conditions and a good place to put fertilizer if you do that. Neem oil root soak method seems to keep most of the bugs and ants out of my trees and it’s hard to mess up on the root soak. This little maintenance trench is also a good place to grow herbs. Just about any herb will benefit your trees root systems. I’m no expert, this is based on trial and error of internet tips. I wish you luck.
Stogie1020 Offline
#173 Posted:
Joined: 12-19-2019
Posts: 5,419
8track, what kind of grass?

How much sun does the area get?
RobertHively Offline
#174 Posted:
Joined: 01-14-2015
Posts: 1,954

Planted vegetables for 7 hrs today. Made a lot of progress but not even close to being finished. I'd say another 5 to 7 hrs of work...

Plus the grass needs cut again. Busy time of year. Burn a lot of calories and a lot of 2 stroke oil.

Over and out.
rfenst Offline
#175 Posted:
Joined: 06-23-2007
Posts: 39,476
RobertHively wrote:
Planted vegetables for 7 hrs today. Made a lot of progress but not even close to being finished. I'd say another 5 to 7 hrs of work...

Plus the grass needs cut again. Busy time of year. Burn a lot of calories and a lot of 2 stroke oil.

Over and out.


I do not have annuals because the ground-cover and other plants contrast each other colorfully and really well.

The ground cover is purple with pink flowers that open daily and never fall off . Right now, the society garlic (pink) the ground cover (purple, African Iris (white and yellow), and my Lilly of the Nile (light blue), are blooming and all but the Lilly of the Nile bloom all summer.

Mulched like 4"+ last year so few to no weeds and it all looks good for another year. Lawn looks great as do the trees and palms. Nothing could kill the hollies, sago palm, cardboard palm, sago palms, Ligustrum or pittosporum....

Most importantly, I started collecting people's spent orchids after they were done blooming over the last year. I have been easily taking care of them watering like 4-6/year and that is it. Key is that they get indirect afternoon sunlight. I have about 10 white and yellows blooms on two plants and a fuchsia and yellow bloom just starting to open up!
RobertHively Offline
#176 Posted:
Joined: 01-14-2015
Posts: 1,954
l^

Sounds like you have a beautiful yard, Fenster. Ours is a work in progress.

We have some Iris plants in our yard. They are purple with some yellow and white on the inner part of the flower.
jeebling Offline
#177 Posted:
Joined: 08-04-2015
Posts: 1,547
RobertHively wrote:
Planted vegetables for 7 hrs today. Made a lot of progress but not even close to being finished. I'd say another 5 to 7 hrs of work...

Plus the grass needs cut again. Busy time of year. Burn a lot of calories and a lot of 2 stroke oil.

Over and out.


Good work bro. Keep stroking (as long as you have oil)
RobertHively Offline
#178 Posted:
Joined: 01-14-2015
Posts: 1,954
jeebling wrote:
Good work bro. Keep stroking (as long as you have oil)



Lol I'll do my best...

Bought a gallon of Echo Red Armor 2 stroke oil in January 2023. Still got about half of it left.

Used a lot more last season, because I ran a 1991 Lawnboy 5hp 2 stroke. They take a 32:1 ratio and guzzle the gasoline. Switched to a new Cub Cadet 4 stroke push mower for trim work this season.

Run my trimmers, chainsaws and water pump at 50:1 per the OEM specs, and still use quite a bit of Red Armor.
RobertHively Offline
#179 Posted:
Joined: 01-14-2015
Posts: 1,954
Still have to put in cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, sugar snap peas, carrots and potatoes.

I'm gonna make a list of everything we've planted in "Garden A" when we are completely finished with it.

Some of the corn is starting to pop up. Most of in fact, other than those last 7 rows that we planted a few days after our initial planting.
Jakethesnake86 Offline
#180 Posted:
Joined: 12-29-2020
Posts: 4,266
Red armor is very very good air cooled 2 stroke oil. I run it myself. I’ve taken a few 2 stroke chainsaws apart. I’ve got 10 or so top notch husqvarna saws. It’s another weird hobby of mine. Do not recommend lucas 2 stroke at all or stihl silver. Use anything but those
Jakethesnake86 Offline
#181 Posted:
Joined: 12-29-2020
Posts: 4,266
Got some ambrosia sweet corn from my seed dealer as a thank you for buying bulk from the guy. I’m gonna put some in my planter and run a few rows at my shop to eat and share
jeebling Offline
#182 Posted:
Joined: 08-04-2015
Posts: 1,547
RobertHively wrote:
Still have to put in cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, sugar snap peas, carrots and potatoes.

I'm gonna make a list of everything we've planted in "Garden A" when we are completely finished with it.

Some of the corn is starting to pop up. Most of in fact, other than those last 7 rows that we planted a few days after our initial planting.


Most of that, if not all, could be planted a little bit earlier, especially if you’re planning to do two plantings next year.
8trackdisco Offline
#183 Posted:
Joined: 11-06-2004
Posts: 60,114
jeebling wrote:
I’ve been told that grass won’t grow under an Oak tree. From the trunk, you should start seeing grass before you get to the drip line. I keep my Oaks mulched about halfway to the drip line. I start the mulch approximately 1 1/2 - 2 foot from the trunk.


The grass was better in the back yard. The grass has been coming back poorer year over year.
Drip Line? Meaning how wide is the root base, relating to the widest span of the canopy above?
Probably 30 yards across? Have five oaks on the property. Grass grows well enough in the front, but doesn't in the back.
I do the spring weed and seed thing (it will go down after the next rain).
8trackdisco Offline
#184 Posted:
Joined: 11-06-2004
Posts: 60,114
Stogie1020 wrote:
8track, what kind of grass?

How much sun does the area get?


Don't know the type of grass. 150 years ago, this was simply a woods. Grass doesn't grow well in the woods. That said, it use to grow a lot better, getting worse YOY.

There is more sun in the back over the years. One neighbor is a tree assassin, so the mid and late afternoon sun seems to cook it more than in the past. The tree assassin neighbor put in a new lawn last year, so my yard looks even more sickly.
Speyside2 Offline
#185 Posted:
Joined: 11-11-2021
Posts: 2,478
Try rye grass in the back, it is rough, but if anything will grow there that is it in my opinion. When I lived in Wisconsin our property had several such areas. An older gent who worked at True Value told me to try rye. I did and it grew just fine.
8trackdisco Offline
#186 Posted:
Joined: 11-06-2004
Posts: 60,114
Bought some organic soil for our raised garden beds.
Once those are poured and all the soil mixed, with test to PH level in the hopes of maximizing our next crop.
8trackdisco Offline
#187 Posted:
Joined: 11-06-2004
Posts: 60,114
Speyside2 wrote:
Try rye grass in the back, it is rough, but if anything will grow there that is it in my opinion. When I lived in Wisconsin our property had several such areas. An older gent who worked at True Value told me to try rye. I did and it grew just fine.


Rye.

Is there an advantage or disadvantage of simply mixing in the rye grass seed with the weed and feed?
Stogie1020 Offline
#188 Posted:
Joined: 12-19-2019
Posts: 5,419
8trackdisco wrote:
Rye.

Is there an advantage or disadvantage of simply mixing in the rye grass seed with the weed and feed?

You can also try Fescue, it has decent shade tollerance.

Before you dump seed down, I might think about core aerating the area. You can do it by hand or rent a machine. You mentioned the grass has gortten worse and worse year over year, so soil compaction may be an issue. It may be making it tough for nutrients to get to the grass roots. If youhave a tiller, you could also till in some manure/compost to loosen the soil and re-invite the microorganisms that make the soil healthy.

In terms of the weed and feed, just make sure it doesn't have any pre-emergent herbicides in it, as they work to prevent new growth (like your grass).
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